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Read the Article About our Saratoga Springs, NY Accommodations
Saratoga Spring's
Crown Jewel Enlivens Upstate New York
by Gail Rudder Kent
Photography by Robert Kerr
James Joyce, the
progenitor of stream-of-consciousness writing, once said an epiphany
was a "shout in the street." Such is the affect on those who see the
Batcheller Mansion in Saratoga Springs, New York for the first time.
The superlative evoked are unanimous for the house that almost needs
no address to be recognized. Clearly and simply, it is an
architectural masterpiece that stops you in your tracks before you
even enter its elegant gates.
A late
nineteenth-century architectural gem, the Batcheller Mansion is the
first residence in the United States to be patented. The three-story
High Victorian Gothic is punctuated by a profusion of dormers capped
by huge clamshell arches, a mansard roof of the French Renaissance
style, archways, pillars decorative mouldings, and a host of
balustraded balconies. Its crowning glory is an Islamic influenced
dome-capped minaret
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Designed by
Nicols and Halcott of Albany in 1873, the High Victorian Gothic
exhibits influences from the French Renaissance, Italian and
Egyptian styles. The red-and-gray slate mansard roof is bifurcated
by dormers, each accented by a huge clamshell arch; the ivory stucco
facade is studded by a myriad of ornate bays and balustraded
balconies, and, as if that weren't enough to impress, its conical
tower resembling a minaret is right out of Arabian Nights. That bit
of exotica was the result of original owner George S. Batcheller's
appointment as first magistrate to Cairo by President Ulysses S.
Grant. By the time you walk up the steps to the arched and columned
portico, you will be suitably dazzled.
Real estate developer Bruce Levinsky will admit he didn't know what
to do with Saratoga's most opulent residence when he purchased it in
1986 from prior owner Eugene Turchi - who already had partially
restored the derelict wonder. The house at 20 Circular Street, the
town's most prestigious address, recalls an era known for its
conspicuous consumption, where footmen were engaged to stand behind
guests at dinner parties and servants retained to wait on American
royalty (legend has it that Mrs. Batcheller once spent $4,000 on a
ball gown). Still, it is an entrepreneur's dream to have something
as distinctive as this to show off to the world - Levinsky knew he
would figure it out. All it took was eight years of living in the
house as it went through a major renovation and restoration. Today
he considers the Batcheller Mansion "the crown jewel" of his
holdings.
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The painted facade and blooming gardens hint of the grandeur to be
found within and, if you're still holding your breath, don't worry
your expectations will be fulfilled. First are the huge double doors
that open into a small vestibule, then a second set, and you have
penetrated the castle. Ahead is a soaring staircase that dominates
the long center hall, its newel post once again in its rightful
place -recovered after a former owner advertised his request in the
local paper that any fixtures looted from the abandoned house be
returned - no questions asked.
What could be
restored in the house was done so with perfection; what had to
be replicated is seamless and authentic to the original. The
3,200-square-foot first floor is an extravaganza of fine
details, elaborately carved and inlaid woods of mahogany,
walnut, tiger maple, and cherry, and decorative mouldings and
dados.
Handsome paneled
wainscoting runs the length of the center hall, with a coffered
ceiling; spectacular high-arched doorways that conceal imposing
pocket doors lead from living room to library to dining room -
framed and capped by intricate pediments with neoclassic details;
tall recessed windows are Romanesque with ornamental cornices; and
each capacious room is warmed by a fireplace of carved marble.
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Add to this
gilded mirrors, furnishings of the period, Oriental rugs,
elegant chandeliers, and original Impressionist-style artwork.
The latter is a bit of outstanding whimsy done by fine artist
Stuart Williams, who has been replicating the greats for years
and felt the house deserved some art produced of its era.
No, A Sunday
Afternoon on the Island of la Grande Jatte in the library is not
by Seurat. Definitely not of the era but equally eye-stopping is
the contemporary culinary gallery hung with faux Matisse,
Picasso, and Braque on twenty-six-foot-high walls. The kitchen,
installed by prior owner Turchi in the 1970s, is flooded with
light from a pair of extraordinary single-paned arched windows,
originally from a bank, that soar two full stories. They are
bordered in contrast by a collection of starkly realistic
pastels depicting lush fruits and vegetables in simple square
frames. This is as tempting a venue for breakfast as the
magnificent formal dining room. You might want to try a
continental-plus here on a weekday and indulge in a full repast
on the weekend where the Batchellers once dined, their family
portraits overseeing your table manners.
But don't think
this place is all show. Modem comforts abound in the library,
where enveloping sofas invite you to sit and browse through an
extensive selection of books or watch television on a
forty-eight-inch screen. And the house has a real heart, kept
beating by innkeeper Sue McCabe, who, with husband Mike and two
children, calls the mansion home. Although there is a
housekeeping staff and an assistant innkeeper, Sue's the one who
makes breakfast - "If you hear pots clanging at four a.m.," she
says, "it's not a ghost, it's me making muffins" - and usually
on hand to give guests the grand tour of the inn. "I've been
here three years," she says, "and still love taking people
through. Their reactions never fail to make me feel lucky to
experience living here."
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It's tempting to take a peek at the nine
distinctly different
guest rooms that are comfortable and less
opulent than the common areas.
The tour
upstairs, if you arrive early enough, will include nine
distinctly different guest rooms -
four on the second floor,
five on the third - and it's definitely tempting to take a peek
at the dormered and gabled quarters that are comfortable and
less opulent than the common areas. Set under the eaves of the
roof, the most unusual accommodation is the Diamond Jim Brady
Suite, one-half of it flamboyantly occupied by a regulation-size
pool table, its large bathroom outfitted with a double Jacuzzi
tub. Batcheller, a spacious retreat, overlooks luxuriant
Congress Park across the street; Katrina Trask has a private
circular terrace. All rooms provide television, telephone, and
refrigerator stocked with Saratoga Springs water.
In the
evening, a leather-bound book filled with menus from recommended
local
Saratoga
Springs restaurants is set out and keys to the front door provided
if you plan to be out beyond ten o'clock. Upon your return, the
mansion, an illuminated beacon of grandeur, will be readied for
the night, the lights dimmed, beds turned down with foil-wrapped
custom chocolates on pillows, and a plate of freshly baked
cookies under a dome in the library, music playing softly in the
background, a fire in the hearth still glowing -whispers of the
past, pleasantries of the present. cm
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Batcheller Mansion Inn, 20 Circular Street, Saratoga Springs, NY
12866; 8001616- 7012 or 518- 584- 7012; fax 5181581-7746.
Nine
guest rooms, all w/private bath. Rates include
continental-plus on weekdays, full breakfast on weekends. No
smoking. Cancellation policy. AX, MC, Visa. |
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